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Author Topic: The mQ valve that wouldn't fit ...  (Read 8342 times)
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m3ph0l0gy
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hey
« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2005, 02:28:07 PM »

I read your input in the mq valve regarding this issue. Thanks for clarifying. My velocity is good, but I did experience drop off the last time I used my gun. But, could be a simple matter of COFF settings.
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drg
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« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2005, 03:21:17 AM »

Try to knock it up a few ms and see if it helps ... the extra bolt travel might be influencing things. Also, did you change your LPR setting much?
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seldon
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« Reply #17 on: December 05, 2005, 03:54:53 AM »

good to know about the sidewinder drg, i´m using one too on my lotus. I was afraid i had to switch it when my mq arrives  :evil: Would be a shame, it´s so nice color-matched ..

Should have my mqs till the end of the week and hope to bring some more opinions into this thread.
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paintballssting
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« Reply #18 on: January 14, 2006, 06:22:24 PM »

Quote
have the body drilled out a little more to move the shoulder further in

I have a grinding disc for my dremel tool and I was wondering if I inserted it into my cocker body and let er rip would it have the same effect? The part that needs to be moved down farther is basically the valve retaining nut threads isnt it? My valve seems to "rest" against the threads, and no matter what I do it still leaks like a sieve. I've even tried doubling up on the gasket, which doesnt work worth a hill o beans.
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Halfblock Racegun w/MQ
Raced/Aced Fastback
VSC PTP halfblock microsniper
PTP halfblock micrococker
VSC Phantom w/45 frame
'97 Flag Station Mongoose halfblock cocker
pre 2k1 PGP
paintballssting
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« Reply #19 on: January 17, 2006, 05:59:54 PM »

Ok, so I got the machinist to mill the valve hole a little. The valve is seated fine with NO LEAKS. The problem is, as soon as I turn on my tank to put air into it....the valve opens and exhausts the air out of the hole leading to the ball chamber. The gun will work ok for about 5 pulls of the trigger than I have no more air. Is it possible the poppet spring isnt strong enough to keep the valve closed? I first thought that it was the solenoid but I tested it outside of the marker and I can hear it click away when I pull the trigger. I also thought maybe it was because I didnt tighten the IVG enough, it is tight enough...so it wasnt that. Now I am at a loss here. I have followed the instructions to the letter and it still leaks. HELP please, before I take a 10lb sledge hammer to the valve and put my stock one back in.
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Halfblock Racegun w/MQ
Raced/Aced Fastback
VSC PTP halfblock microsniper
PTP halfblock micrococker
VSC Phantom w/45 frame
'97 Flag Station Mongoose halfblock cocker
pre 2k1 PGP
paintballssting
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« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2006, 05:32:53 PM »

Im a moron :shock: duh duh duh, Im a moron...... :lol:

I put a bigger o-ring in the front of the valve, guess what? The leak went bye bye Smiley .....T o bad I dont have anymore air left to test it further. :cry:
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Halfblock Racegun w/MQ
Raced/Aced Fastback
VSC PTP halfblock microsniper
PTP halfblock micrococker
VSC Phantom w/45 frame
'97 Flag Station Mongoose halfblock cocker
pre 2k1 PGP
drg
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« Reply #21 on: January 20, 2006, 02:14:14 PM »

When you say "in the front of the valve" what precisely do you mean?
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m3ph0l0gy
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yo
« Reply #22 on: January 22, 2006, 07:44:24 PM »

I seem to have another problem with my zforce.. the constant chopping has been dealth with, but i have a cocker that is shooting too hot now. I think i removed the white spacer of the mq valve. My son is at 3.3 b4 the valve stops operating and my inline pressure is above the operating point. Does anyone have a pic of the white spacer? all i did was open up the pilot and what seemed to be the only "white" small spacer in there, I removed. So why is it still shooting hot?
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