New Half Block Parts Potentially Coming Soon!

[sivart321]

Here are some new Half Block products from California Paintball Products (CAPP).  These products are not yet being manufactured in large quantities, but have great potential.  I am coming here first to get an idea of how much interest there is.   Feel free to post your comments, suggestions, and any requests you might have.  Also, please refrain from linking to this thread on PBNation.  Thank you.



All Parts will be CNC machined out of Nylatron GS.
_______________________________________

High Flowing Nylatron Bolt - Improved efficiency over standard half block bolts.  Comparable to the AKA lightning bolt in efficiency.  Angled air inlet and tapered bore.  Tested against current designs using FlowWorks.

Weight = 13.5 grams with current detent



________________________________________

New Lightweight Nylatron Back Block Sled - Minimalistic design maintaining strength for reliable operation.  About as light as you can get.  

Weight = 3.6 grams



_________________________________________

Lightweight Pin Designed for mQ-valved cockers.  Guess what, it is also light!  

Weight = 0.93 grams!!



__________________________________________

Last but not least, we would offer the complete package.  There is discussion about creating another pin, but most users can re-use their current pin.  If there is a huge demand for a super lightweight titanium, or even better, a hard anodized 7075 pin, we might consider it.

Total reciprocating mass is just over 18 grams!  Nothing even compares!










P.S.  We truely do have the intention of manufacturing these products.  The only real issue is the amount of interest there is.  We have also been considering doing half cocker conversions using these parts, but that is still also up in the air.  Thanks again.

[drg]

I do a lot of bemoaning the state of the halfblock industry, but I am highly encouraged that people like you are stepping up. Most of the time people say they can make something but can't seriously do it. But you have shown and more or less proven that you can and have done things right.

So I'll put my money where my mouth is and order a full set if you do get these made. I do need to get some parts for when my mQ comes in anyway, and my early model turtle stuff could surely be improved upon :wink:

I do wonder, however, how much variance there is between halfblock jobs. Much is made of the fact that they, especially Turtles, are custom pieces.

[sivart321]

That is a good question that we have been trying to answer.

If possible, I would like to see if people could measure the distance of their pin hole to the face of the bolt.  That will give us a general idea of the variance.  If that is not the same as the turtle's ~2.1 inches, we might have a problem.  

I sure hope there is some consistency, as the small number of turtle owners would limit the prodction scale a lot, making costs rise quickly.

[yuu]

oh, some good news.  Please keep up updated.  I am interested in the conversion process.  So when you make some decisions on that, sure would like to know.

Good luck on this endevour.

[lackskill]

Sivart,

I just got my FBM Halfassed kit and I am now measuring the bolt but we need to establish some kind of a norm.  When you say the face you must mean the rear of the bolt?  And are you measuring from centerline of hole to face of bolt?  I get about 2 1/64" from front of bolt hole to rear of bolt.  But this is not the measurement we should really look at as the handle of the bolt could be any length.  We need to measure from hole to where the rear of the back block would be.  On mine that measurement is 1 15/32".  I am pretty excited to see this being mentioned as I was asking about this on PBN a while back and pretty much got flamed for it...

[prettyful_unicorn]

why are there two slots on the slide block?  I believe only one is needed.

[sivart321]

By face, I was referring to where the air is released.  Either way, a few measurements of each bolt wouldnt hurt.

I would also like the know the size of the bacl block, from front to back, and the distance from the hole in the back block to either the front or back of the block, as well as the important dimesions of the bolt.  Such as distance from the front of the bolt (where the air enters the barrel) to where the front of the back block is, and also where the pin hole is.

That should give me a great idea of what I have to work with.

Also, slot in the back block?  You mean the hole for the pump arm threads?  The second hole is simply for lightening.  I can remove it if people think it is ugly, but you save about .28 grams

[badkarmaiii]

CAPP, I'd gladly have you do the conversion on my Works cocker, assuming it's a reasonable value. Any idea what the cost would be?

-Murph

[sivart321]

Not sure yet.  We haven't worked out the details completely.

Expect it to be inline with current conversion costs.

[lackskill]

By face, I was referring to where the air is released.  Either way, a few measurements of each bolt wouldnt hurt.

I would also like the know the size of the bacl block, from front to back, and the distance from the hole in the back block to either the front or back of the block, as well as the important dimesions of the bolt.  Such as distance from the front of the bolt (where the air enters the barrel) to where the front of the back block is, and also where the pin hole is.

That should give me a great idea of what I have to work with.
quote]

here is a rough sketch w/ dimensions for the bolt from my FBM halfassed kit.



My sled measures 1/2" in length and the pin hole centerline is 5/16" from the front.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help in any way.

[OrryMan]

I don't have a conversion yet, but am looking to get one with the release of the MQ valve and everything... I'm definately interested because i think that stuff would look great on an orracle.

[lackskill]

hey sivart, are my specs inline with what you have in mind for production models?

[sivart321]

Yes.  All of the important dimensions are almost identical between the two.  If there is a slight difference, it is nothing you couldnt fix by moving the sled slightly back on the pump arm threads.  

One thing to note is that in our design there is no grooved rear part.  The part you grab to remove the bolt, where the ball detent resides, has been eliminated to save weight (you can still easily pull the bolt out, as there is a solid 1/2" to grab onto.)  Along with that, we were able to put the ball detent further in on the bolt, between the pin hole and the air inlet hole, allowing us to loose alot of material from the grooved grabber part and where the ball detent use to reside.

Also, these weights are not an exageration.  If anything, production parts will be lighter than shown above.

Can anyone measure a race-gun bolt or fast back bolt?  I would love to be able to make this a universal fit.

[yuu]

Um, wowzers...

Good looking, light parts, and turn around times a third or less than the competition...

Oh I hope this isn't too good to be true.

[MacDave06]

Finally someone makes a new bolt. I had to slap a bush bolt in my fastback because the pressure ran so high it was making my gun break the more brittle paints that it never broke before. I like the idea that somebody is finally stepping up and trying to make some new stuff for halfblocks though, maybe this will help make them more popular.