:idea: Your halfblocking expertise is needed!

[BananaBoy]

Hello all,

I am hoping that with the wealth of knowledge that you guys possess, you'll be able to aid me in halfblocking my own cocker.  i know there are services out there that will do it (and possibly for cheaper than i could do it) but what's the fun in that!  no disrespct to those who had it done in fact i could still use your help!

i have access to a mill and will be following the directions set out in the DIY area of this site.  the questions i have are more along the lines of measurements and your opinions for parts and pieces to mill.  i've posted some of these questions around the forum but haven't got any responses.. :roll:  i guess i need to post them into my own thread  here goes:

 1st  :?:  what works better for the bolt - a sled or backbolt? and why...?

2nd  :?:  what makes one halfblock bolt better than another? are there even enough to compare?  could i use existing bolts (ie.ego) and modify it for a halfblock bolt?

3rd  :?:  can anyone provide me PRCISE measurements for a sled/backbolt and pull pin? for the pull pin, i need a length for a halfblock cocker that will use an mq-valve and one for a cocker without (i have two cockers i plan to convert/enhance!)

thanks in advance for all your help.  i'll try to post pictures of my progress as i have them available!

[Snowman]

Sled and block is pure prefrence. The weight diffrence isn't enough to sway either way. Pretty much the sled is simple, clean, and easy. The block is alittle more complicated but if you spend some time with a dremel you can make it match the milling of the gun so it looks better. It's all up to you.
You can use any bushy bolt and it will line right up with the DIY specs. And halfblock bolts aren't supurior to other bolts... they're just the only bolt that fits.
Sorry can't help you with the pin specs.

[BananaBoy]

thanks, snowman for the input...

mudd was suggesting that a back block may provide more guidance for the bolt but does that necessarily help in performance (sry bro, not doubting you... just wanna seek out other's opinions). afterall the back block on a regular cocker has nothing guiding it at all (esp if the cocking rod is replace w/ an mq-valve)

Having said that... i would imagine a back block would be more efficient simply because it would have less friction than a sled would when sliding on top of the bottom tube... does that even make sense?

another question  :?:  if there's a slot cut for a cocker w/out an mq valve, could you still later upgrade to a mq valve with the same body or will the hole affect it in any way.

[Snowman]

The issue with guidence is like the weight issue... yes there's a diffrence but barely enough to menchin. The back block on a normal cocker doesn't guide, the body it's self does. And yes you can add a mqv at any time to a halfcocker, slot or not (ryhm not intended) hey it might even lighten the gun a bit  

[Dees_Troy]

I ran an MQ in my Martin halfblock for a while.  It, of course, had a slot in it from before the MQ.  You do save a little weight with the slot, but you also leave a spot for dirt to get into the body.

When I switched to the MQ, I obviously did not want the original bolt pin as it would have stuck too far into the body and damaged the MQ valve.  I bought a standard Slik delrin pull pin to use instead and it worked just fine.  If you are doing a straight MQ setup with back block and custom building your bolt, you could have the bolt pin go in sideways like it does on a normal cocker rather than vertical.  You should be able to follow the dimentions of a regular back block to make your halfblock's back block.  You could even use a standard autococker back block and cut the bottom of it off.  It doesn't need to make contact with the body for a guide if you don't want it to.  My Martin's back block just hovers now that it is set up for MQ operation.