Read all of this before beginning anything!!!!!!!First things first, I had to wing this puppy so all this info is based on mine working extremely well without problems. It took a couple tries to get the angles right but because there is no rail like all other
spydermags none of the other ways work. Here is the pics on what it took to do this some are on a camera phone some are high res. Here ya go. To start I went with the pilot ACS grip do to I had one from way back Walmart special $149 marked down to $80 so I bought 2 back in 04' and it's the closest thing to what I'm used to shootin. I'm sure it's the same as the ESP or the Rocking trigger but your call. I'm using the pilot board cause semi is uncapped and burst is 13 and Auto is 13 plenty for me.
Make sure you have access to a $200 mig welder a bottle of gas and a Micrometer and grinder and your all ready for action OH AND A DREMEL with a grinding bit !! If you don't own a 20 dollar Micrometer you need one anyway. All of the metal you will be welding is cast so let cool by itself or wrap it in a welding glove if it cools too fast it breaks in funny ways !!!!
First thing when you are setting up the AGD sear is to seperate the straight down factory trigger linkage from the rest of the sear as seen in the pic, then just leave the excess for later I remove some of to try another way but once again I was flyin blind and it didn't work so you can just remove what get's in the way. Final angles and lengths can be achieved a few different ways. but ultimately you want to remove the from the upper and you the micrometer measurements in the pics. If you do you will have no problems with angles just work it backwards and weld. You can always add and subtract metal later (no one's perfect). DON'T REMOVE ANY METAL FROM ANY OF THE FACTORY SET EDGES ON THE TOP OF THE SEAR JUST THE BOTTOM, THE TOP IS CRITICAL TO 20 AND UP A SEC FUNCTIONALITY AND THE BOLT AND ULT PIN SET DISTANCES!!! So Look at the pics and get an angle going. don't be light on the metal it's cast you half to get it real hot or will crack, the trick is to tack the back and fill the gap don't force the two edges together or it will never weld.
Next you want to make the Spyder sear into a 90 degree angle, that's what it looks like when your done ( first pic ), then with mig just keep popping a little metal on at a time till you have a big ball of goo on the end
DONT WELD ANYWHERE NEAR THE PIN HOLE IN THE SEAR IT WILL DESTROY ALL SET LOCATION AND IT'S A PAIN TO DRILL DUE TO THE STRENGTH OF THE METALS Last the bottom sear for the solenoid is really the most important thing in the ball of wax you want it to fire at the end of the solenoid stroke not the beginning, or you'll fry your board, momentum saves from electrical burn of components. so air it before you charge it up and use your thumb to check where it fires, just push the solenoid forward until it fires past the halfway mark of the stroke. what it also does is makes RT'ing possible I hit my sweet spot like normal on semi if I want it to fire that fast but instead of on 1000 psi I'm at 700 psi and rippin'. with a different board I can can actually get all 26 bps out of it if I want and not have to crank up the psi. -----Back to the build ----
That's it good luck and all of this with no help or guide took about 5 hours it shouldn't take any longer than that . Since you never messed with your Micro Body you can swap the $15 sear out with the original and undo everything.
Any questions about it hit me up fast cause I'll be in Basic Trainging after the 20th of may so feel free to ask ...Hoo Rah!! Go Army and yes I have shot mine over a thousand times at all kinds of rates of fire and no it doesn't effect any of the AGD function like level 10 or Rate of fire!! :twisted:
