Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - drg

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
Buy/sell - Paintball / HALFBLOCK HAMMER SLUGS, mQ pilot seals
« on: July 17, 2009, 09:26:09 PM »
Some parts for sale, some odd, some hard to get:


What is it?
The hammer slug is an add-on weight for your sniper or autococker hammer. It was designed for halfblocks and midblocks, which experience significant hammer assembly lightening. It is made of a heavy tungsten alloy which replaces the entire weight of the cocking rod.

The hammer slug can also be used on a full-body marker as a heavy cocking rod knob, or in other applications when hammer weight could use tuning.

Why use it?

One of the first things many people notice about halfblocks and midblocks is that the spring tuning changes. This is because a half/midblock uses a slotted hammer and does not use a cocking rod. This amounts to around a 33% weight loss in the hammer assembly, which necessitates springing changes which often include a heavier mainspring or higher IVG setting. This means that cocking force requirement increases, leading to a higher LPR setting or a heavier pump stroke.

The hammer slug replaces nearly all of the lost weight* and allows a lighter spring tuning overall, leading to a lower LPR setting or a lighter pump stroke. If you are halfblocking an already tuned marker, the slug can help keep retuning to a minimum.

* Halfblock hammer + slug = 97-98% of the weight of a stock 2k+ hammer + stock cocking rod

How do I use it?
Simply screw the slug into the back of the halfblock hammer and re-assemble. You don't even have to remove the hammer to do this. Blue loctite is recommended to prevent loosening.

For use as a cocking rod knob, remove the current knob, transfer the set screw from inside the current knob into the slug, and screw the slug back onto the cocking rod. Tighten the set screw to lock it down. Blue loctite may be used if loosening is an issue. For ultimate mass, a second slug can be used internally by cutting extra threads on the cocking rod.

NOTE: The halfblock slug is not compatible with midgeted guns (shortened bottom tubes) or guns with hammers that don't have cocking rod threading.

SOLD OUT - Sorry!

Please let me know if you plan to use the slug on a full-size cocker.


These are the urethane "dot" seals for mQ valve pilot assemblies. In my experience this is the #1 wear part in an mQ valve. Sometimes the new 90 durometer (black) seals can leak as well. These are 80 durometer seals (natural color).

$4.99 for 3 seals, shipped within the US.

More parts later.

All sales are Paypal only. Contact me for international shipping.

Site discussion / WE'RE BACK - Site converted
« on: July 17, 2009, 05:47:45 AM »
As you can see, the site is now converted over to new forum software. You may see some weirdness in the next few days as I work out a new style and get the new software set up. But everything should have transferred over and your account should still be active. Let me know if not!

Halfblock talk / My latest
« on: June 10, 2008, 03:05:09 AM »

Here's my latest baby. I'm playing mostly pump these days so naturally I had to put together a halfblock (well it's between a halfblock and midblock) Sniper! This one has an mQ2 inside powered by a universal T-board, stuffed (literally) into an Angel LED single frame.

More angles:

Halfblock talk / Carter halfblock, hammer issue
« on: April 05, 2008, 11:05:05 PM »
Worked on a Carter halfblock sniper today that had a problem with the bolt not clearing the breech completely on backstroke. User ended up having lots of chopping problems as a result.

Traced the problem to the hammer -- the slot milled in the top of the hammer was too short, so the hammer lug was hitting the back of the lug slot before the bolt fully cleared the breech.

I happened to have another halfblock hammer from my gun and we swapped it in. The bolt clears properly now.

If you are one of the lucky few Carter halfblock owners, you may want to check this on your marker.

An interesting thing about the Carter hammers is that the slot is shallower than the typical halfblock hammer, which preserves more hammer weight (it was noticeably heavier).

Articles / Halfblocking DIY Info
« on: February 02, 2008, 02:39:02 AM »
Halfblock-specific parts:

    * Bolt
    * Backblock/sled/shuttle
    * Slotted hammer
    * Bolt pin

Drg's turtle dimensions*

    * Bolt length ~3.050"
    * Hammer slot ~.122" deep and ~.750 long from face
    * Top tube length ~3.205"
    * Backblock ~.975 in. wide and ~.750 in thick (front to back)
    * Bottom tube slot ~.22" wide, begins ~0.09" behind top tube, ~1.55" long

* As measured by Drg, use at your own risk

2008 Millennium rules = 12 BPS max

This is from a post by Nicky T, Eclipse Customer Service, at PBN:

In order to comply with the new Millennium rule regarding gun firing modes, Eclipse markers should be configured as follows -

Ego 7 / Ego 8

1. Enter the Setup menu;
2. Select [PRESET] [LOAD] and choose the MILLEN option;
3. Select [MAX ROF] and set the value to 11.8*;
4. Select [OFF ROF] and set the value to 11.8*;
5. Select [RAMP SET] [KICK IN] and set the value to 6.0;
6. Select [RAMP SET] [SUSTAIN] and set the value to 6.0;
7. Select [PRESET] [SAVE] and choose the USER 1 option to save these settings for future use.
8. Exit the Setup menu;
9. Check the rate of fire on a league approved ROF meter.

Ego 5 / Ego 6

1. Enter the Setup menu;
2. Select [MODE] and choose the RAMP 3** option;
3. Select [ROF CAP] and set the value to 11.8*;
4. Select [OFF ROF] and set the value to 11.8*;
5. Exit the Setup menu;
6. Check the rate of fire on a league approved ROF meter.

Etek / Etek 2

1. Enter the Setup menu;
2. Select Firing Mode (red) and set the value to 05.0 (Ramp 3);
3. Select Maximum ROF (green) and set the value to 11.8*;
4. Select Maximum ROF with BBSS Disabled (blue) and set the value to 11.8*;
5. Exit the Setup menu;
6. Check the rate of fire on a league approved ROF meter.

Planet Eclipse no longer provides software updates for the eBlade platform, however the following may prove useful in setting these products up to be compliant

E2 / Zero B

1. Fit fresh batteries to the loader that will be used and set the loader speed as required;
2. Enter the Setup menu;
3. Select [MODE] and choose the RAMP 3** option;
4. Set the COFF parameter to 40ms;
5. Enable the breech sensor;
6. Shoot the gun so that it ramps and measure the ROF on a rate of fire meter;
7. Adjust the COFF parameter and repeat 6 until the ROF is 11.8bps* (increasing COFF reduces ROF);
8. Check that CDELAY + CON + COFF is greater than 84ms and if not then increase CON;
9. Exit the Setup menu;
10. Check the rate of fire on a league approved ROF meter.

E1 (eBlade)
1. Fit fresh batteries to the loader that will be used and set the loader speed as required;
2. Enter the Setup menu;
3. Set the COFF parameter to 40ms;
4. Enable the breech sensor;
5. Shoot the gun as quickly as you can and measure the ROF on a rate of fire meter;
6. Adjust the COFF parameter and repeat 5 until the ROF is 11.8bps* (increasing COFF reduces ROF);
7. Check that CDELAY + CON + COFF is greater than 84ms and if not then increase CON;
8. Exit the Setup menu;
9. Check the rate of fire on a league approved ROF meter.

*The rate of fire settings on Egos are accurate however not all rate of fire meters will read the same. We recommend that guns be set on the safe side of the legal limit. The difference between 11.8 and 12.0bps is only 1 extra ball every 59 shots!

**If your software does not have the RAMP 3 option then it will be necessary to upgrade your software to the latest version.

I hope that this information helps anyone playing (or training for) events that utilise 2008 Millennium Rules.


Nicky T

Articles / Useful links
« on: January 23, 2008, 09:47:59 AM »
Here are some recommended links that might be of interest: - An expansive gallery of autocockers, but perhaps the more important feature is the forum, which is the de facto new AIR-Powered forum. A place for cocker fans and fanatics alike.

Halblocking guide on Customcockers:

Site discussion / Gallery policy
« on: January 23, 2008, 09:33:54 AM »
All users of are entitled to one gallery for each of their markers. Markers must be halfblock/midblock type markers or otherwise be approved by the administrators.

To get a gallery, PM me with a request, stating the type of marker you will be posting (i.e. which gallery category it goes into). You will receive full rights to post, edit and delete images from that gallery. Of course, images must be appropriate or the gallery in question will be shut down, removed or forcibly edited.

Hotlinking to the images in your gallery is allowed, within reason.

Articles / Aluminum CO2 tank fill weights
« on: January 23, 2008, 09:25:58 AM »
Use at your own risk!

These are the full weights for standard Catalina-style aluminum CO2 tanks of various capacities, with standard pin valves. Fill tanks at your own risk! We take no responsibility for anyhting that happens to you.

Tank capacity - Weight full
  • 3.5 oz - 15 oz
  • 7 oz - 1 lb 8 oz
  • 9 oz - 1 lb 12 oz
  • 10 oz - 1 lb 12 oz
  • 12 oz - 1 lb 15 oz
  • 16 oz - 2 lb 9 oz
  • 20 oz- 3 lbs

Articles / mQ FAQ *Under construction*
« on: January 23, 2008, 09:20:12 AM »

Articles / Halfcocker FAQ *Under construction*
« on: January 23, 2008, 08:44:00 AM »
 What is a halfblock cocker and how does it work?

Halfblock cockers are paintball markers based around the WGP Autococker design. The main difference is that the upper body tube is shortened and the backblock rides on top of the bottom tube. Cocking is internalized, generally via a slot in the top of the bottom tube through which a pin or tang catches the hammer and pushes it back from the front, as opposed to pulling back a cocking rod in a standard autococker. The lower tube of the marker generally houses a valvetrain with standard autococker layout, but usually a custom hammer. See the How-it-works gallery for images and diagrams.

·  What kinds of halfblocks are there and who makes them? *UPDATE IN PROGRESS*

See the gallery for images of these styles.

WGP - WGP re-introduced the Black Magic in 2005 as its first factory halfblock/midblock-style Autococker. Positioned somewhere between the Superstock and Karnivor in the product lineup, it wass not considered WGP's top of the line marker and did not include their top-of-the-line pneumatics. Came standard with the select-fire Worrframe. Utilizes a fully enclosed sled design. WGP's line now includes other similar midblock-style markers.

Turtle Cocker - At one time the most popular and common half block. Created by Bob “Turtle” Long (not to be confused with Bob Long of Intimidator fame), these are available as conversions of existing bodies, body kits or complete markers. These feature delrin bolts and backblocks.

Martin Mini Block Autococker - These custom body kits and complete markers were created by the now-defunct Martin Paintball. Currently they are out of production and are fairly rare. They feature aluminum backblocks.

Doc’s Fastback – These are fully custom body kits made by Doc Nickel of Alaska. They feature smooth styling and distinctive “teeth” at the back of the lower tube. The bolt rides exposed on a “sled” to which the cocking arm connects. Doc seems to have made one run of these and has not made more. He is notoriously hard to contact and very, very slow to complete jobs, so there is no saying when more will be available. Occasionally sells kits and complete guns through eBay.

Racegun Halfblock - This version features distinctive milling and matched metal backblock. Some say these are some of the more aesthetic halfbacks. Not available as body only – must be purchased as complete marker based around race grip. Racegun says it can provide halfblock conversions and body kits, contact them directly for more info.

FBM Half-Assed cocker - A later entry into the halfblock field. It is available as a body kit, with quite a few options. It uses a sled reminiscent of the Fastback.

PBX cocker - While it looks different from most other halfblocks, the design is similar enough to be included on this list. It is the only halfblock to have physical guides for the backblock. Not yet in production.

Warpedsportz Z-force - A recent entry into the halfblock field, this is a completely custom-designed body that features clean styling, 2-piece body w eye mounting at the bottom of the breech, custom front block. Available as body kits which include matching-anodized barrels, or complete markers.

Disruptive Paintball Disruptor Pro-cut - Authorized Turtle conversions of WGP bodies, custom designed and machined. R. Long does some of their machining. Available as Pro-Cut Disruptor complete marker or body kit. Distinctive 3D milling, lifetime warranties.

Advance Concepts - An eBay only outlet; no Web site. Not much is known. Looks like Turtle parts but do not know for sure. May have discontinued this body style. Anyone with info?

Pro-Team Products Micrococker – The original halfblock cocker, these can still be found in circulation but are somewhat antiquated today. They are based on early WGP bodies, so the valve chambers are small, and the design was not as refined as later models. Many feature the “so 90s” splash anodizing.

A+ Anodizing - Deals custom anodized Turtle bodies occasionally through eBay.

Midblock “Catapult” cocker – No official Web site, pictures available in the gallery. Although this variant takes pains to distinguish itself from other, more traditional halfblocks, the design is almost identical. It makes use of a very small “midblock” that rides between the bolt and the lower tube. The bolt and block are guided by a slot in the side of the body and a part of the upper tube that is not milled off. Only 10 or 12 of these were made (have seen differing numbers). These are fully custom bodies created by PBNation member Ken C from Canada. The creator is releasing another run for 2006.

Tx-Tuning – Tx-tuning does Sledgehammer conversions using an aggressive style and design with rams relocated to the side of the body. Uses a sled-type arrangement with a delrin o-ringless bolt. For more info in English, see this thread in our forum. Tx-tuning also does a midblock conversion called the Sledgehammer Lite.

Jarrett Custom Machining - A personal venture, these conversions are fairly inexpensive and promise quick turnaround times. JCM does not do annodizing but will arrange it for customers. As of Dec. 2005, JCM has stopped taking new jobs.

Hyénes Product - Based in France, this company does halfblock conversions as well as producing custom parts and a completely custom pump gun, the "Jackal." You can see pictures of their work here and here.

Other custom shops - In 2007 and into 2008, the number of small shops doing halfblocking rose significantly. These shops have for the most part been reliable suppliers. Inquire in the forums for more information.

·  How much do they cost/what is the cheapest halfblock?

Conversions are from various custom shops starting at $50. This is the cheapest route.

Body kits are sometimes sold by custom shops and manufacturers, these typically range from $150-200 and up.

Complete guns run upward from around $400 and include markers such as the WGP Jeff Orr LE series, WGP SR, CCM T2 and Sanchez halfblock pump.

·  What are the advantages?

Size: Halfblock cockers are significantly smaller than their full-body counterparts. They lose the backblock protruding from the back of the marker and, perhaps more significantly, do not require cocking rods and thus beavertails. Overall volume is significantly reduced.

Weight: Halfblock cockers are generally lighter (by varying degrees) than full-body cockers. Areas of weight savings include milling off half of the top tube, reduction of the backblock size, elimination of the beavertail, elimination of the cocking rod, shortening of the bolt, shortening of the cocking rod, notching of the hammer. Obviously some of these have more effect than others, and some can affect other areas of the marker’s operation. Most halfblock cockers also are based on milled cocker bodies, which are lighter than non-milled or less-milled bodies to begin with.

Reduced cocking mass: The backblock, pump rod, bolt, and hammer assembly are all potentially lighter in halfblock cockers than full-size bodies. Lower cocking mass has been credited with various improvements in marker operation including increased cyclic rate and lower cocking effort.

Cocker compatibility: Halfblocks generally use standard cocker pneumatics and grip frames. Most use standard front blocks and ASAs. Most can use standard autococker valves and springs.

Aesthetics: Many find the halfblock body style good-looking.

Custom/”coolness” factor: As of the creation of this FAQ, halfblock bodies, kits and markers are still mostly considered custom, generally high-end parts.

Reliability: Halfblocks are generally no less reliable than standard cockers and may exceed the reliability of standard cockers in certain areas, e.g. you never have to worry about cocking rods coming loose.

Hammer access: It is very easy to access the cocking lug on the hammer of slotted-body halfblock cockers.

·  What are the disadvantages?

Cost: There is generally no low-cost mass-produced factory halfblock body or marker. Halfblock designs generally demand at least some premium.

Aesthetics: Many people find the halfblock body style ugly, particularly those with delrin backblocks that can’t be color-matched to the body.

Cocker incompatibilities: Certain halfblock parts are custom pieces and cannot be replaced with off-the-shelf standard cocker parts. Generally these parts include the bolts, backblocks, pump rods, cocking pins and hammers.

Acquisition: As most halfblocks are largely custom pieces done by smaller shops, simply getting a halfblock conversion, body or marker can be an adventure. Many shops either have stopped making them or cannot deliver them reliably. Shops have also had trouble converting bodies in a reasonable timeframe. Pre-cut bodies are always an option but are more difficult to get one’s hands on than most full bodies. Some models are just plain rare. Check major paintball forums for market information and to explore your best options.

Hammer assembly mass: In addition to milling a slot into the hammer, turtle conversions do away with the cocking rod, which has the effect of lightening the hammer assembly significantly. The IVG may need to be turned in or the main spring raised in order to compensate, which can in turn require more cocking pressure. This can be compensated for in various ways.

Hammer access: The slot in the top of the bottom tube means dirt and debris has another way to get inside.

·  Can you use the mQ valve in halfblock cockers?

The MQ valve will work in most modern halfblocks. The Z-Force and Merlin-based halfblocks will require 11/16 size valves.

As long as a standard valvetrain layout is used, the mQ valve will work. The cocking pin will have to be modified/ground down so it does not protrude into the lower tube, however. Alteratively a short detent-style pin for normal backblocks may work, such as a Freeflow, Silk or Kapp.

·  What is the best halfblock?

All modern production halfblocks are capable of performing within a small range of each other. It is really a matter of personal preference and aesthetics. Ask owners for specifics. As of this writing, the largest issues facing potential halfblock owners are cost and acquisition, so the answer to this question is "the one you can get."

·  Can I make my own halfblock?

If you have to ask, no.

·  Is the halfblock design patented?

Yes and no. The simple idea of cutting down a cocker body is not, as far as is known, patented. However Bob "Turtle" Long is reported to hold a provisional patent for the design of the cocking pin in Turtle cockers, which extends through a slot into the bottom tube to pull back the hammer. This patent does not apply to all halfblocks. For example, the Racegun Halfblock uses a protrusion on the block itself rather than an extension of the pin. Bob "Turtle" Long also holds the patent to the Turtle valve.

·  What is the difference between a midblock and a halfblock?

The primary difference between a midblock and a halfblock is that bolt guidance in a midblock is done by the top tube of the marker. In a halfblock, bolt guidance is accomplished by the backblock/sled. Midblocks are otherwise functionally identical to halfblocks.

Midblocks use a small linkage between the pump rod and the bolt, and maintain some of the top tube behind the linkage, hence the term "midblock." There is a slot cut into the side of the body.

Current midblocks include the WGP Autococker SR, WGP Jeff Orr LE series, and the Sledgehammer Lite by Tx-Tuning.

Advantages to this design include the ability to aesthetially style the top tube (avoiding backblock mismatch) and more positive bolt guidance (in practice this is nearly moot). Disadvantages include greater body weight and a loss of the "moving backblock" look that makes 'cockers unique.

·  Is a halfblock faster than a full-body?

It depends. 99% of the time this question is asked, based on what the poster is thinking, the answer is no.

First, the assumption is made that "faster" means "achieves a higher rate of fire." The largest factor in ROF most people have in mind when asking this about halfblocks is reciprocating mass. Indeed, halfblocking a marker can reduce reciprocating mass -- but replacing parts in a full-body with the lightest parts available can approach or exceed the reduction achieved with halfblocking. In other words, reciprocating mass in most halfblock setups is not usually significantly less than the lightest fullbody setups, and sometimes is not less at all.

In some very specific cases with specific parts, a halfblock's reciprocating mass can be lighter than the lightest fullbody reciprocating mass (the Slik kit at the time of this writing). But it is generally accepted that with the proper modifications, even fullbodies not using the lightest parts can achieve ROFs that exceed the feed rate of the fastest loaders. Thus, as a practical matter, past a certain point, max ROF is more dependent on loading than marker reciprocating mass.

All current halfblocks, coupled with good pneumatics, are past that point. Many fullbodies are as well. Thus, the answer to the question is no.

·  Does a halfblock have less kick than a full-body?

The answer to this question is very similar to the previous question, "is it faster?"

The same considerations regarding reciprocating mass apply -- reciprocating mass in most halfblock setups is not usually significantly less than the lightest fullbody setups, and sometimes is not less at all. So mechanically sourced kick from the reciprocating assembly isn't going to be much less.

Furthermore, for most guns tuned to reduce reciprocating mass, the largest single component of kick is the actual ball firing, and obviously that won't be much different on a halfblock than on a fullbody.

There is one other important consideration -- inertia. Heavier objects are more resistant to movement. It can be said that reciprocating assembly kick is less a result of the absolute weight of the assembly as the result of the ratio of the mass of the assembly to the mass of the entire gun it's attached to. And an overall heavier gun will resist kick from firing the ball better. Therefore, insomuch as halfblock bodies are often lighter than fullbodies, halfblocks can actually be MORE prone to kick.

Whether this is negligible or not is in the eyes of the beholder. But suffice to say there is little sound basis for the blanket claim that halfblocks have less kick -- so the answer is no.

Articles / Weights n Measures Project
« on: January 23, 2008, 08:20:01 AM »
Just how heavy is that part anyway?

This is an attempt to comprehensively list the weights of whatever cocker part can be thrown on a scale.



    * WGP MP-4 ram (with ram hoses, about 3" of hose): 23.65g
    * MPP Ram with Eclipse QEV's: 43.7g


    * Palmer's Micro Rock (standard hex adjuster, with barb): 67.55g
    * WGP Sledgehammer (late model, with brass fitting and barb): 85.07g

Pneumatics valves

    * CCM 3-way (late model angled nose, with shaft and integrated collar, 3 barbs, no set screws): 11.35g
    * WGP 3-way (early model long brass, with shaft, 3 barbs): 37.14g

Block screws

    * Stock WGP front block screw: 20.30g
    * KAPP stainless front block screw (flat top): 24.43g


    * Eclipse QEV (black aluminum): 2.60-2.65g

Reciprocating parts


    * Drg's turtle bolt (early model, delrin open-face with metal detent): 21.17g
    * Freeflow nylatron bolt (early model 2 o-ring venturi, with detent): 28.45g
    * CCM half-delrin bolt (from an S5 body): 34.57g
    * Turtle Cocker Delrin Bolt (nylon ball, steel set screw): 18.9g
    * WGP Delrin Bolt (worrblade): 44.3g
    * JAM bolt (1st generation, all aluminum): 68.30g


    * Drg's turtle backblock (early model, full-hoop block): 10.30g
    * Freeflow Lotus (P-block): 25.65
    * CCM delrin backblock (from an S5 body): 12.30g
    * Turtle Sled Style Delrin Back Block (Newest turtle design): 4.9g
    * Jackal RDL backblock (late model): 18.05g

Bolt pins

    * Drg's turtle cocking pin (stainless with delrin knob): 10.55g
    * Freeflow nylatron bolt pin: 1.45g
    * CCM bolt pin (nylon/delrin?): 1.85g
    * Turtle Cocker Pull Pin, mQ size (delrin with steel pin): 8.6g
    * Custom Delrin Pull Pin (Slik style, for mQ-valved half block): 1.2g
    * Custom Ti Half Block Pull Pin (similar to Z-Force?): 5.7g
    * Slik Pull Pin (manufacturer's spec): 1.6g
    * Steel WGP Stock Pull Pin: 15.3g

Pump arms

    * Turtle short pump arm (stainless): 8.10g
    * Turtle Aluminum Pump Arm (Newest Turtle Design): 5.5g
    * Custom Mini Length CCM pump arm (For half block cocker - w/ added internal steel screw to prevent breakage): 5.8g
    * Full length Aluminum CCM Pump Arm: 10.3g
    * Full Length Steel CCM Pump Arm (aluminum Coupler): 26.7g
    * Mini Length Steel Pump Arm: 19.2g
    * Mini Length straight pump rod (stainless steel, WWA pump kit): 25.85g

Internal parts

mQ valve

    * mQ Spacer (normal mQ, 2nd run): 8.95-9.00g
    * mQ Poppet (2nd run): 1.25g
    * mQ Valve body/poppet housing (2nd run): 4.00g
    * mQ Solenoid assembly (2nd run): 30.45g


    * Freeflow tungsten hammer (early model w/ 4 nylon set screws and flat lug): 74.67g
    * BBT Phat Hammer: 40.50g
    * Stock WGP hammer, flat lug: 39.50g
    * CCM hammer: 42.55g
    * WGP JOLE V3 hammer (longer than normal stock + no cocking rod threading): 43.00g

Cocking rods

    * Freeflow(?, w/ bumper, knob and set screw): 22.03g
    * CCM (w/ bumper, aluminum knob and set screw): 15.30g
    * MacDev Ti Cocking Rod (old School): 11.3g

Valve jam nuts

    * Stock jam nut (black steel alloy?): 6.95g
    * KAPP jam nut (stainless w/ o-ring): 4.05g


    * Stock IVG (brass w/ o-ring): 13.15g


Cocker items

    * Mechanical trigger sear (polished stainless non-roller, possibly Eclipse?): 8.30g
    * Chunk Of Aluminum Removed for Mini Conversion: 36.4g(+ material the mill took off after initial band saw cut)
    * Chunk Of aluminum Removed for half block Conversion: 69.3g (+ Milled Material)

Paintball items

    * CP Inline Reg, short w/ 90 degree macroline fitting: 96.35g
    * Unimount (early) w/ gripframe screws, no fittings: 94.20g
    * Macroline fitting, 90 degree, unknown make: 22.25g
    * Sticker, approx. 4.25 in x 1.25 in, vinyl: 1.15g

All participation in this project is welcome, post your findings in the thread found in the Paintball Talk forum.

Site discussion / We're back
« on: January 23, 2008, 01:33:45 AM »
So I've decided that with the proper tweaks, why not leave Halfcocker up? You might see a few changes in the site layout in the days to come but we're back.

Site discussion / Closing the site
« on: December 07, 2007, 03:08:55 AM »
Due to some recent events and a general lack of time to work with this site, I am shuttering it. It is no longer serving the purpose it was created for, and that is complete, unbiased news of the halfblock world along with supporting the halfblocking industry. I no longer have the time or passion for this.

ETA to closure is about 1 week.

Paintball talk / My pneumag ...
« on: July 17, 2007, 05:20:04 AM »
I've been cheating on my Turtle cocker!

And here is the video:

Pages: [1] 2 3 4